Climbing Shoe Flow Chart

Climbing Shoe Flow Chart

The Endeavor is a great shoe for face climbing. It is pretty stiff and moderately aggressive, but not overly downturned, allowing you to use fine edges and stick your toes into divots and holes. Another great shoe for face climbing that is a little more aggressive, is the Mad Rock Lyra.

ENDEAVOR STIFF and AGGRESSIVE

Lyra, STIFFandAGGRESSIVE

The ultra-classic La Sportiva TC Pro’s are generally considered the “ultimate technical climbing shoe” for crack or slab climbing. Another great shoe is my all time favorite, Evolv Rockstar. Either of these shoes are pretty comfortable and can be worn on long multi-pitch routes.

MZ_TCPro_861

Rockstars at Stoney

Mad Rock has a new shoe called the Lotus that is a super aggressive shoe, specific for bouldering, especially for overhung routes. This shoe is very downturned and pretty flexible, allowing you to balance on ridiculously small holds and literally hook your foot onto holds. If you are looking for something with a little bit harder rubber, the La Sportiva Solutions are pretty popular and are great for heel hooking!

LOTUS STIFF and FLEXABLE

LASPORTIVA SOLUTIONS

Technical Love

If you are a new climber, you have gotten all kinds of questionable bodily configurations yelled at you from the ground. Often times you don’t listen (you really don’t) and keep struggling to get the move with your own clumsy beta. That was me once. Now, I beg my climbing friends for technical beta. I love technique. I love learning a new technique that I never even thought to try before. At first it feels awkward and I don’t know how to use my body to accomplish the move, but, as time goes on it makes more sense it and I incorporate it into my climbing without even realizing it. When think back to the basics like backstepping and flagging, I can’t believe how far I have come because those movements come to me so naturally now. The climbing techniques  on this menu appear along with their definitions, examples of where you might use them, and a video demonstration.

Flag (ex. The Crack at Stoney Point).

Flagging is used purely for balance. You are flagging when you stick your foot and leg out in one direction or another but don’t put it on anything. Think of it like a pendulum. If you need to go out left, flag your left foot to the right and visa versa. Flagging is often used when there are no good foot holds for one foot or if something is overhung or reachey.

Watch how I get my left foot up high and flag my right foot  to the left when I go for that reachy move with my right hand at the beginning.

You know you are a bad ass climber chick if:

  • you don’t mind the look of chipped nail polish  and you won’t let the lady at the nail salon touch your calluses

IMG_4850

  • there is spilled chalk that you haven’t had the chance to clean up in some area of your home or car
  • all of your leggings have holes in the butt
  • your friends ask you why your car smells like feet
  • you spend more money on Patagonia, La Sportiva and Prana than you do on C&C California, Michael Kors, or Prada.

Image

  • people wonder what kind of relationship you are in because of the bruises all over your legs and cuts on your hands
  • you aren’t shy when it comes to talking about poop
  • it’s hard find a guy because you “only date climbers”
  • you don’t have to watch what you eat, carbs = power
Image

Nom face on Cat in the Hat in Red Rocks, Nevada

  • people introduce you as a “professional” rock climber (even though you only climb V3, shhhhh, they don’t know what that means)
  • if you run out of toilet paper or tampons at home you always have extra in your climbing pack
  • you have seriously considered wearing hiking pants, sports bras, approach shoes, etc. to work
  • you have to size up your tops, jackets and dresses because otherwise you can’t get them over your shoulders without them ripping

Image

  • your sister thinks you are “granola”
  • you don’t care if he has a job as long as he can climb V8 or ascend 13s. The girl version of beer goggles!
  • Taking two trips to carry groceries from your car is not an option. You hang a bag from each finger and consider it training
  • you are planning on naming your future child or pet: Grigri, Crimp, Beta, Sharma, Sierra Nevada, Purcell Prusik, Buttermilk, Whitney Portal, or some other insane climbing term or destination

Image

  • your life evolves around your next climbing trip